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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.